The Sportsman (Kent)

There was an absolute array of openers for this lunch as part of the full tasting menu option chosen.  Parmesan cheese biscuits with a soft cheese filling were small in size but absolutely exploding with cheese flavour – perhaps the most intense I have ever tasted.  Oysters were served frozen and as an ice cream with seaweed as an ingenious touch hailed by all at the table.  Alternatives of salmon and herring with pickle, apple granita and caviar on different servings which were all a fresh pleasure.  More oysters were then served in the traditional format with creme and caviar and then again with chorizo – all of which reportedly went down well with everyone.

The classic homemade focaccia, sourdough and treacle breads were as good as always and if this is the first review of mine you are reading about the Sportsman, it’s worth mentioning again how utterly sublime these are.  In nearly thirty years of knowing my Sister in law, she has never made any mention of any particular food to me, except being happy with to have just champagne and the bread at the Sportsman on a long afternoon.  I think that speaks for itself if anything does.

The scratchings were thankfully served again for this occasion but in this rendition, they were larger portions rasher meat, deep-fried and glazed with mustard and soy, served with an apple foam dip.  If it is possible, I think I almost preferred this version than the beloved scratchings they have served in the past and was another true moment of food happiness.

White crab meat with carrot and spiced hollandaise was the perfect fish starter but was upstaged by the mushroom tartlet with egg yolk with perfect pastry and intense mushroom flavour with hint of truffle.  The slip sole dish is a signature dish which used to be served with seaweed butter but is now served with smoked butter – again, something I think is a very welcome change.

Halibut was served with a mushroom and lemongrass sauce which, is a new touch and was stunning as a combination and the simple sauce with the fish and few vegetables was a cracker of a dish.  Beef formed the main dish with celeriac puree and a powerful jus, although this was the only part of the menu that didn’t quite hit the mark for me, with acceptable but not wonderful cuts of beef used and with a large amount of fat served that could not be eaten.

Cream cheese ice cream with ginger, on the other hand, was one of the very finest and enjoyable pre-deserts I have ever had without any exaggeration.  This was followed by a near-faultless passion fruit souffle and wonderful custard and chocolate tartlets as petit fours with coffees all round.

This concluded a fabulous meal.  With the exception of one dish that was merely ‘good’ in comparison to the others, the meal was an absolute triumph and perhaps the best one I have had on any visit.  The dishes have evolved but have kept in keeping with their traditional style that makes this venue so successful for me – simplicity done to superb levels.

For this occasion, the daily tasting menu was tried which I have not done before.  This is £55 for a six-course menu that represents more good value at The Sportsman.  The other bonus of this menu is that it does not need guests to arrive at 12pm or 7pm as the tasting menu does and can be ordered at any time through lunch and dinner services.  This was another splendid visit.

Pork scratchings with the cider dip was customarily wonderful and was lovely to be able to introduce these to my guest who had never had before.  The mushroom tart with egg was as superb as I recall, as was the focaccia bread.  A simple linguini with truffle was warming and basically perfectly judged and turbot with bouillabaisse sauce was delicate and simple.

Perhaps the only part of the meal I found beneath par was the maple-cured pork.  The fat allowed on the serving was too much to enjoy and whilst the meat was well done, it was only hitting medium wavelength happiness.  A dark chocolate and salted caramel tart was offset by a tangy dollop of creme fraiche as a classic combination.

Again, on this visit, no dish was in anyway a disappointment and I loved the mushroom mousse on delectably thin, crispy tart as well as the turbot with upgraded tomato cream sauce – I didn’t think it would actually be possible to overtake the vin juane sauce but I think this actually did and I loved every second of every course.  This was another wonderful meal and a double-absolute pleasure to share it with those closest to me on the quality occasion it was.

The interior has lovely wooden tables complete with log fire at the bar end to keep the feeling comfortably casual and all those that serve dinner clearly share the passion of the food served and enjoy describing all that has been prepared.  Another word on that is needed: the lamb fillets in breadcrumbs with a mint and syrup dip was phenomenal, the turbot with dessert wine cream sauce (vin jaun) and slice of pork rind on the top was utterly magnificent, the mushroom ravioli with droplets of truffle made the mushroom simply sensational and even the herb bread with salt crust with locally made butter was worthy of a mention in itself.

I cannot emphasise enough how enjoyable and memorable the food and full tasting menu was at this establishment (the tasting menu which is only available on various parts of the week).  There are only two places in the world whereby I feel worthy of giving 100% based on the food and this is one of them.  I would recommend this eatery for virtually any occasion, no matter how informal or special and it would most likely cater for any group or situation.  My only regret is that reviews like this might increase the likelihood of finding it tricky to get a table(!) and I will look forward to going back at any time.