Gravetye Manor (West Hoathly)

The meal started with some delightful cheese gourgeres that had velvety and soft fillings and pea mini tartlets that had delightfully brittle pastry cases and fresh pea flavour. Both enjoyable pleasantries to begin with although the table did agree that slightly warmer gougeres without the parmesan shavings on top (if the removal of the parmesan cheese helped with this).

I started with green asparagus, lovage emulsion, quail egg & goats curd which was a genuine pleasure.  The quail eggs added richness, the asparagus itself being as fresh as one could expect from the season and fact it was grown in their own gardens and decorated with visually and texturally pleasing pastry crisps on top.  Next was native lobster, spiced carrot, coriander & bisque, the bisque having good depth and the sliced carrot in particular, working very well with the lobster.

For the main, I opted for the Cumbrian lamb, roasted onion, garlic scapes & allium flowers which all worked together as well as these timeless combinations have done.  The garlic puree and allium notes all round were suitably toned down to allow the (good quality) lamb be the main part to enjoy.

Dessert was strawberry, blueberry, meringue & verbena and although quite a simple dessert, the key being that the strawberries were wonderful and the meringue just at the right thickness to properly enjoy and compliment all.  The petit fours that followed were all pleasurable and well made and this all made for an entirely agreeable meal.

Speaking with the executive chef at the end was a definite privilege that I am conscious that most might not receive however, it showed me: a) he was in and leading the service(!) which is not always the same in many other Michelin-starred venues I could cite, b) betterment was strived for at all times, seen in the huge effort recently to transform the restaurant from one side of the hotel to the other to afford the pleasurable view and c) I do like the way that the hotel and restaurant is not cashing in on its accolade by switching to overpriced, set tasting menus only, focussing on a reasonable menu that all can have several options – almost a rarity these days.  I would also add that if ever there was a place to enjoy a skillfully presented vegetarian menu, this will be a very good option to have up your sleeve.

I tried the salad of crown prince pumpkin with cow’s curd, cheese sablê, pumpkin seed and black truffle as I wanted to see their forte ability with such an expansive garden.  The only problem is that regrettably, my timing wasn’t brilliant being in the worst season for vegetable growth however, it’s always good to see how a renowned Michelin starred venue combats this.  I would say that with the ingredients available this was done just about as good as anyone could do with plump pumkin chunks, creamy cheese curd and truffle shavings to jazz things up and held together with the garnish.  The seeds worked well for texture and basically, it wasn’t a full-scale opera but not a bad thing at the same time.

Breads were warmed and presented very well and again, although plain in the majority, they were done well with good springiness all round.  Also tried was the starter of foie gras parfait with verjus, glazed walnut, orange and chicory.  This was somehow sent to the table without the brioche which had been forgotten and caused a wait in the proceedings.  Although these things happen and is not the end of the world, especially if both starters are cold, it was a surprise for this basic error to occur (at a Michelin starred restaurant) however, all was rectified with one baked and brought to the table as quickly as possible.  The parfait itself was set hard and quite tough to handle and although I liked the crunchy exterior, the flavour of the parfait just wasn’t to the same standard as that experienced at Dinner, The Cross or La Trompette for example.

Mains of lamb and selections of Newhaven fish fillets were more enjoyble.  The lamb had depth of flavour, both parts being utterly tender with a rather lovely potato terrine and supporting sauce / puree elements.  The selection of fish in bouillabaisse sauce was nicely done, the fish pieces being succulent and seared to good effect.  No negatives really, but similarly, no high fives caused at the same time.

Desserts however, were a very welcome notch upwards.  The mango crème brûlée was beautifully judged, with just the right sweetness and eggy consistency.  This had a superb ginger beer sorbet and was one of the nicest sorbets had.  Equally enjoyable was the white chocolate mousse with variations of apple, treacle and cinnamon crumb – these flavours were superb altogether and was the definition of harmony.  Tea and petit fours were enjoyed in one of the lounges opposite the fire place with a seemingly long wait for the bill.

So all in all a surprising mix of results but thankfully with some good moments and all being presented in a refined way.  I suppose I was simply hoping for a bit more ‘X’ factor.  The venue will serve as a wonderful haven for anyone needing to conduct a regain or gain points with their other half but for the more advanced diners there were easily areas to raise.  Very glad to have done it though and a tasting menu in the warmer months is the only way to be sure.