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Tredwell’s (West End)

16th April 2016 by Richard Bagnold Leave a Comment

Superb, value for money option from Marcus Wareing serving delightful food including one of the nicest desserts available in London - consistent cooking overseen by 'Lady Tredwell' (Chantelle Nicholson)

  • 16th April 2016
  • 19th June 2015
  • 13th June 2015
  • 30th April 2015

It was nice to be sat upstairs on this occasion (there is a basement too, often used for live jazz evenings) and also to try lunch as opposed to the pre-theatre which I have done several times now.  This lunch was an online offer for 3 courses and a blini for £25 which is not only wonderful value but when you are having food that is this satisfying I do have to think where else in London can compare on this sort of Richter scale of return – I’m not sure anywhere else does.

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The chicken raviolo with garlic puree and bacon starter that I had was frankly out of this world and one of the year’s highlights so far – and that’s including visits to two 3 Michelin starred restaurants (La Pergola and La Calandre).  The crab, mango, elderflower and lemongrass, another starter, was beautifully fresh and original.  Both mains were very good, not as explosive as the starters, but still highly enjoyable with a lovely spiced kick in the sauce to accompany the pork and a very vibrant, lemony zing to go with the bream.  It was difficult not to be seduced by the array of interesting sides on offer: the triple cooked chips with hollandaise mousse was truly marvellous – utterly indulgent, but what else is the weekend for?  The kids menu was enjoyed by the junior diner at the table, the fishcake being that good that another was ordered and was such incredible value at £5 each – adults came to the rescue for the veg in the jar which I thought was equally pleasant with a drizzle of wonderful stock at the bottom of jar.  The blue cheese croquettes were also very good to try – thankfully not too powerful in their ‘blueness’ and were delicately done.

The salted caramel soft serve was always going to be enforced to being done by someone at the table and I haven’t had the banana soft serve before which was very good to try with its pecan and bourbon fudge cubes – I still stand by the former, salted caramel soft serve reigning supreme though as the best ice cream I have ever had in London, possibly the world.  All in all, a delightful return to Tredwell’s – every single visit here for me has never failed and I heartily believe it is one of the very best places in London for sumptuous dishes and guaranteed pleasure at such good value.  Thank you the team again.

Food Grade: 85%

Offer menu
Kids menu
Kids fabulous fishcake
Crab, elderflower and kohlrabi lemongrass
Chicken raviolo
Pork fillet, kimchee sauce
Blue cheese croquettes
Down the apple and pears cocktail
Bream main
Triple cooked chips with hollandaise mousse and wilted greens sides
Salted caramel soft serve with honeycomb
Valrhona Caraibe chocolate, blood orange curd, negroni créme
Banana soft serve
Kids ‘tasting menu’ available
The bill for two and a half people

My fourth visit to this wonderful place and have finally been able to enjoy a breakfast from their recently rolled out menu.  It just fascinates me when walking through London that you could either have a breakfast at Subway or another fast food joint for roughly £5, or you can have frankly the finest bacon I’ve had in many years, with eggy bread, a drizzle of maple syrup and caramelised bananas at superb quality for £6 here! What are the arguments for not doing the latter?! It was so nice to have the day off and just enjoy this breakfast that I pushed the boat out to have the eggs benedict as well which I have to say was beautiful.

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I was worried at the start that the slow-cooked eggs would take away the fun of the usual runniness, but actually the fact that they were held together and beautifully soft, meant spreading them was actually easier(!) and their combination with a wonderfully slightly spiced king prawns with a sumptuous hollandaise foam.  I happened to be the only one eating breakfast (brunch really as I came after the rush at 1045am) on the ground floor so I had no problems asking for the remainder of the chef’s hollandaise pot as it takes a bit of effort to make and no sense in wasting it(!).

I really enjoyed this breakfast, truly.  It was a lovely twist on these dishes and done in a light way, so I didn’t feel bloated afterwards and the staff were wonderful.  Even the sausage was done with the perfect level of spice and was gorgeous on its own.  This place simply doesn’t seem to be able to do anything wrong and it joins a special place in my ‘arsenal of options’ of being a guarantee to feel good after each visit – what more is an eatery supposed to do and be in making someone feel?

Food Grade: 76%

Window table
Breakfast menu
Iced fresh mint and lime tea
Prawn Benedict
With slow-cooked eggs
Reinforcement hollandaise foam
Eggy bread with bacon, maple syrup and caramelised bananas
Sausage and meat view
Breakfast bill for 1

My third visit to this fantastically comfortable and superb value for money venue.  The liver mousse simply had to be done again because it was there and is still a delightful option but the new salmon dishes experienced were both simple, clean and had powerful flavours (a lovely, gentle mustard kick within the watercress sauce for the starter).  The gin and tonic cheesecake was also a wonderfully light and refreshing dessert with a beautifully light base, breaking away from the usual, heavy affair so many get so wrong.  Simple, non-pretentious and clean dishes yet again and the house carafe of 2013 Château La Coste ‘Frigousse’ White was perfectly balanced as a soft and creamy white which, for £13 for two glasses each, was another superb string to the value for money bow.

Another wonderful experience here and I cannot recommend this option more in ticking so many boxes and is almost unbeatable in the drop in / set menu context in London for what you are getting. The 3 courses of £20 pre-theatre / set lunch option I believe should be taken advantage of by everyone as much as humanly possible as frankly, in my opinion (having eaten in all Michelin starred restaurants in London), Tredwell’s sits comfortably within the 1 Michelin starred bracket and doesn’t have any traits or reasons not gaining this in 2016. But, we will simply have to see what mood the guide is in this year and in November.

Food Grade: 85%

Liver mousse with bacon jam
Hot smoked salmon, grilled courgette & watercress sauce
Scottish salmon, pickled cucumber, fennel salad, gazpacho sauce (1)
Courgette and pea dumplings, sugar-snap pea, coriander, coconut sauce
Scottish salmon (2) beautifully warmed
Kids optional menu
Gin & tonic cheesecake and soft serves (caramel and kid’s chocolate)
Caramel Soft Serve with honeycomb
The bill for 2.5

I left here with a huge smile and far larger than I was expecting.  This set menu here at £20 for 3 courses was the best I have had for value for money and intense return on flavour.  There wasn’t a single thing in the cooking I didn’t like with the liver mousse & bacon jam being delicious, the batter bits on top of the gorgeous haddock with delightful tartare sauce and peas being an absolute triumph and I also loved the honeycomb to go with the salted caramel ice cream whip with side of warm chocolate sauce – truly happy emotions on the food here.

Frankly I would be surprised if this establishment did not pick up a Michelin star very quickly based on this set menu alone and the dishes tasted wonderful.  The service was very hospitable but veered towards being a little too familiar on occasion however it was a superb show all round and the dining rooms upstairs and downstairs is a good thing for busy times.  Bravo Mr Wareing, the food here I thought was great, a very comfortable feel and I will definitely be returning.  In fact, this I actually did two days later for the same dishes which I simply had to have again(!).  I have never had the urge to do this before and I managed to see the jazz combo in the downstairs section on a Sat night as well which was a very pleasant and social atmosphere to be a part of.  Highly caring and attentive service on the second visit.

Food Grade: 79%

Goat’s cheese & beetroot
Liver mousse
Haddock with batter bits at Tredwell’s
Sides
Ginger cake
Salted caramel with warm chocolate
The bill for 3

Location

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  • Food Rating - 80%
    80

Summary

Wonderful flavours.
Comfortable setting.
Value for money.
Utterly unpretentious but with good quality.

Service bordered on too casual on first visit, however immaculate since.

Restaurant Details

Permanently closed

Michelin Stars: N/A

Cuisine: Modern British

Address: 4a Upper St Martin's Lane, London WC2H 9NY

Website: Tredwell's (West End)

Wine List: Click Here

Telephone: +44 20 3764 0840

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About Me

meMy hobby-turned-passion began to evolve during my assignments to London where I was fortunate enough to be able to explore all the Michelin starred restaurants in my spare time and as a result, I gradually built up a catalogue of all these venues.

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